Post by LHR02 on Jul 6, 2005 15:06:48 GMT -5
latest from CT regarding her trip to St. Malo and Mont St, Michel:
Hello readers:
So as most of you know this past weekend I was fortunate enough to take a trip outside of Paris. It all started when I went to go have dinner here at the Cite Universitaire (you get a big meal for only 2.50euros). On my way out I was thinking how much I wished I could go somewhere -- and then boom! There it was: A poster from from "Le Club International des Jeunes a Paris," advertising a weekend trip to St. Malo and Mont Saint Michel for the low price of 85 Euros. This included transportation from Paris, some guided visits, breakfast, and our accomodations. Needless to say I was seriously intrigued -- there was absolutely NO way I could do the same trip for a lower price. The train trip alone would cost about that much. I made a mental note of their website and headed up to my room where I promptly contacted them to find out if they had any spaces available. Gladly they still had some!
I was really really excited about this trip. I could see some other parts of France (truth be told, while I've visited other parts of Europe, Paris is the only place I really know in this country) and I could finally see Mont Saint Michel. You see, for quite some time I had been wanting to visit but had never made it out there. This time I was determined to go and here was my chance. At this point, I knew nothing about Saint Malo (except that it was a fortified city) and though it would be nothing but a footnote on my trip. How wrong I was . . .
I arrived at the meeting point (in front of the Opera Garnier) nice and early for our 6:45am meeting. I will admit to being a tad bit nervous given that I did not know anyone going on the trip. When I got to the Opera house there was only one girl sitting there. We introduced ourselve's but she seemed more interested in listening to her iPod then talking. Slowly but surely people started trickling in -- my fears about making friends disappeared when we discovered that somehow a whole bunch of us from North America, who didn't really know anyone, ended up sitting near each other. We became fast friends and ended up hanging out all weekend.
I really can't tell you how long the drive took to Saint Malo, I slept the entire way, but I was told it was approximately 5 hours. We arrived and pulled up to a parking lot next to a Marina. I could see the stone walls of the city. I was curious but still I hadn't seen the true Saint Malo. It was around lunch time by this point and we headed out to find a place to eat. We actually ended up walking away from the main tourist drag, always a good thing, and chose a small unassuming place. There it was that I had my first oysters ever!!!! Being from Toronto I had always shyed away from eating them for fear they wouldn't be fresh. I figured if ever I was going to do it this would be the place. Of course I wasn't ready to be too adventurous so I only ordered them as an appetizer. Figuring that way if I didn't like them at least I wouldn't starve. They arrived looking somewhat slimy in their half shell. My dining companions told me what to do and next thing I knew I was slurping my first oyster. It took about a minute for it to register but I was shocked: they were amazing!!!! In fact, I think they tasted like the Ocean. Now I only regret that it took me so long to eat my first one . . .
After lunch we went on a guided tour of the city of Saint Malo. That's where all of a sudden things made sense . . . We were told how the city was actually named after Saint Maclow -- a Welsh monk who often used the area (pre-city) as a sanctuary. More importantly, however, I was told about how the people of the region had always been fiercely independent. Considering themselves from Saint Malo first, Brittany second, and France third. Indeed, this is still exemplified by the fact that on the city hall the flag of the city still flies much higher than that of France.
At one point the people of Saint Malo went so far as to declare themselves a Republic! Being a very busy sea port they figured, rightly so, that they would gain more benefit by standing alone. Economics was not their only motivation though -- the city is also fiercely Catholic -- and King Henry IV (the reigning monarch at the time) was Protestant. The people of the city, apparently, could never imagine being ruled by a Protestant king. So based on this multitude of factors they declared themselves a Republic! And it worked for a while -- much to the dismay of the French monarchy. The end came soon after the Spanish monarchy refused to ally themselves with Saint Malo, for fear of upsetting the French King. Despite their wealth from the shipping industry the people of Saint Malo found themselves without allies. Eventually, the people of Saint Malo found their way back to France -- BUT only after being bribed back with the promise of greatly reduced taxation on the profits from their shipping industry.
Needless to say though the independent spirit of the people of Saint Malo still lives on!
And why did I say that all of a sudden it all made sense? Well, the people of Saint Malo (home to Jacques Cartier) are those that colonized Quebec. Clearly, it's in the blood . . .
The most pleasant discovery of my trip was the beach front of Saint Malo. I had never ever seen water that was turquoise in colour. Sure, I live practically on the beach in Victoria, but that's the Pacific North West! Even on a beatiful sunny day it will never be more than blue. Not to say that it's not beautiful but I was just in awe. The beach actually goes on and on. Much longer than I had anticipated. And it's not boring either: directly behind it are the walled fortifications of the city, at certain points there are craggly rocks - lending some visual interest, and small islands -- many with small forts dot the water front just in front. It was simply stunning! In fact I was completely surprised that it was so empty. I loved it though! I spent most of my time just hanging out by the water. I didn't go swimming but I did splash around with my pants rolled up past my knees. I can honestly say that some of my moments on that beach were filled with perfect joy. The kind of joy that can only come from discovering something new and wonderfully unexpected!
All of Saturday was spent in Saint Malo and early on Sunday morning we headed to Mont Saint Michel. This was the reason I had come on the trip and I was looking forward to my visit. I will say, however, that I was somewhat disappointed. The pictures you see of the Mont (completely surrounded by water) are not accurate representations. They are taken from the bay area and ignore the fact that there is a large spit that joins the Mont to the mainland and prevents it from being truly an island. We were also unfortunately there during low tide.
Nonetheless it was impressive to see the land surrounding the Mont. It's my understanding that the wet sand can at some points turn into quick sand. One can also see however lush green meadows and sheep/lamb grazing on them. It's perfectly pastoral and really quite beautiful. The best view of this is from the terrace in the abbey at the very tip of the Mont.
And how does one get there you ask? One climbs up a narrow town lane and the proceeds to climb up hundreds and hundreds of steps. Once upon a time the Mont used to be a major site of pilgrimage (right up there with Santiago de Compostela). The abbey/church was established as a result of a dream where the Archangel Michael appeared and commanded that a church be built in that very place. I have come to the conclusion that places of pilgrimage are inextricably linked with discomfort. It's as though pilgrims had to suffer a bit before they received their miracle! In our modern times, it's all about working those glutes before you get a nice view!
The abbey itself is quite pretty. I have to admit however that it is also quite large and at one point (particularly in the subterranean parts) it all starts to resemble one another. Nonetheless, it's worth it for the views of the surrounding countryside. Although nice, but not as impressive, views can be had from vantage points along the fortifications of the city.
But what was my biggest beef with the city you ask? Definitely the fact that it's very very touristy. I know it seems crazy, given that I'm in Paris, but I'm generally not a fan of overly touristed sites. My favourite place in the whole world, is after all, Gimmelwald -- a tiny little village up in the Swiss Alps. I guess I can't blame the people of Mont Saint Michel though. It's just that with one tiny little street and with so many tour buses it's inevitable. It's certainly not a place to hang around in but it is nonetheless a place worth seeing if only for the mystique. Do try to visit during high tide though and stop to take pictures from far away.
In short -- am I happy I went on the trip? Absolutely! I met some great people, I practiced French, ate some oysters, saw a beautiful beach, and finally visited Mont Saint Michel. I would do it all over again. In fact I highly recommend the excursions of this group to anyone. You can reach their website at: www.club-international.org
As for my time since I returned I have been busy catching up with school work. Already you ask!?! Well, it appears that one of our Profs decided to bury our reading assignments in the middle of one of our books. None of us knew about it and as a result on the first day of class I was already 100 pages behind on the readings!!!! Ayyyaaa!
I did find some time this afternoon though to do some serious damage by hitting the shops. I arrived just in time for the semi-annual sales here in Paris and I thought it best to engage in some retail therapy lest the French leave me with nothing. I was fairly successful but it did take an awful lot of time and an awful lot of patience. Seriously, it's like it's boxing day everyday! I did buy some very cute things though that are bound to get people to ask: "Oh, where did you get that?" To which I will of course reply "Paris." :oP I kid, I kid . . . I'm really not that bad but it does happen.
And just in closing: I've been observing the accessories of people in the Metro/RER -- 'cause really what else is there to do!?! I have once again been impressed by the French ability to accessories and coordinate. We're not nearly so good at it in Canada -- even when we try. One thing in particular that perplexes me about French women is their endless ability to tie a scarf in a myriad of interesting and beautiful ways! I've tried -- believe me I've tried! But to no avail! I've even purchased books!!! This too must be in the genes . . .
Until we meet again,
A Canadian in Paris
Hello readers:
So as most of you know this past weekend I was fortunate enough to take a trip outside of Paris. It all started when I went to go have dinner here at the Cite Universitaire (you get a big meal for only 2.50euros). On my way out I was thinking how much I wished I could go somewhere -- and then boom! There it was: A poster from from "Le Club International des Jeunes a Paris," advertising a weekend trip to St. Malo and Mont Saint Michel for the low price of 85 Euros. This included transportation from Paris, some guided visits, breakfast, and our accomodations. Needless to say I was seriously intrigued -- there was absolutely NO way I could do the same trip for a lower price. The train trip alone would cost about that much. I made a mental note of their website and headed up to my room where I promptly contacted them to find out if they had any spaces available. Gladly they still had some!
I was really really excited about this trip. I could see some other parts of France (truth be told, while I've visited other parts of Europe, Paris is the only place I really know in this country) and I could finally see Mont Saint Michel. You see, for quite some time I had been wanting to visit but had never made it out there. This time I was determined to go and here was my chance. At this point, I knew nothing about Saint Malo (except that it was a fortified city) and though it would be nothing but a footnote on my trip. How wrong I was . . .
I arrived at the meeting point (in front of the Opera Garnier) nice and early for our 6:45am meeting. I will admit to being a tad bit nervous given that I did not know anyone going on the trip. When I got to the Opera house there was only one girl sitting there. We introduced ourselve's but she seemed more interested in listening to her iPod then talking. Slowly but surely people started trickling in -- my fears about making friends disappeared when we discovered that somehow a whole bunch of us from North America, who didn't really know anyone, ended up sitting near each other. We became fast friends and ended up hanging out all weekend.
I really can't tell you how long the drive took to Saint Malo, I slept the entire way, but I was told it was approximately 5 hours. We arrived and pulled up to a parking lot next to a Marina. I could see the stone walls of the city. I was curious but still I hadn't seen the true Saint Malo. It was around lunch time by this point and we headed out to find a place to eat. We actually ended up walking away from the main tourist drag, always a good thing, and chose a small unassuming place. There it was that I had my first oysters ever!!!! Being from Toronto I had always shyed away from eating them for fear they wouldn't be fresh. I figured if ever I was going to do it this would be the place. Of course I wasn't ready to be too adventurous so I only ordered them as an appetizer. Figuring that way if I didn't like them at least I wouldn't starve. They arrived looking somewhat slimy in their half shell. My dining companions told me what to do and next thing I knew I was slurping my first oyster. It took about a minute for it to register but I was shocked: they were amazing!!!! In fact, I think they tasted like the Ocean. Now I only regret that it took me so long to eat my first one . . .
After lunch we went on a guided tour of the city of Saint Malo. That's where all of a sudden things made sense . . . We were told how the city was actually named after Saint Maclow -- a Welsh monk who often used the area (pre-city) as a sanctuary. More importantly, however, I was told about how the people of the region had always been fiercely independent. Considering themselves from Saint Malo first, Brittany second, and France third. Indeed, this is still exemplified by the fact that on the city hall the flag of the city still flies much higher than that of France.
At one point the people of Saint Malo went so far as to declare themselves a Republic! Being a very busy sea port they figured, rightly so, that they would gain more benefit by standing alone. Economics was not their only motivation though -- the city is also fiercely Catholic -- and King Henry IV (the reigning monarch at the time) was Protestant. The people of the city, apparently, could never imagine being ruled by a Protestant king. So based on this multitude of factors they declared themselves a Republic! And it worked for a while -- much to the dismay of the French monarchy. The end came soon after the Spanish monarchy refused to ally themselves with Saint Malo, for fear of upsetting the French King. Despite their wealth from the shipping industry the people of Saint Malo found themselves without allies. Eventually, the people of Saint Malo found their way back to France -- BUT only after being bribed back with the promise of greatly reduced taxation on the profits from their shipping industry.
Needless to say though the independent spirit of the people of Saint Malo still lives on!
And why did I say that all of a sudden it all made sense? Well, the people of Saint Malo (home to Jacques Cartier) are those that colonized Quebec. Clearly, it's in the blood . . .
The most pleasant discovery of my trip was the beach front of Saint Malo. I had never ever seen water that was turquoise in colour. Sure, I live practically on the beach in Victoria, but that's the Pacific North West! Even on a beatiful sunny day it will never be more than blue. Not to say that it's not beautiful but I was just in awe. The beach actually goes on and on. Much longer than I had anticipated. And it's not boring either: directly behind it are the walled fortifications of the city, at certain points there are craggly rocks - lending some visual interest, and small islands -- many with small forts dot the water front just in front. It was simply stunning! In fact I was completely surprised that it was so empty. I loved it though! I spent most of my time just hanging out by the water. I didn't go swimming but I did splash around with my pants rolled up past my knees. I can honestly say that some of my moments on that beach were filled with perfect joy. The kind of joy that can only come from discovering something new and wonderfully unexpected!
All of Saturday was spent in Saint Malo and early on Sunday morning we headed to Mont Saint Michel. This was the reason I had come on the trip and I was looking forward to my visit. I will say, however, that I was somewhat disappointed. The pictures you see of the Mont (completely surrounded by water) are not accurate representations. They are taken from the bay area and ignore the fact that there is a large spit that joins the Mont to the mainland and prevents it from being truly an island. We were also unfortunately there during low tide.
Nonetheless it was impressive to see the land surrounding the Mont. It's my understanding that the wet sand can at some points turn into quick sand. One can also see however lush green meadows and sheep/lamb grazing on them. It's perfectly pastoral and really quite beautiful. The best view of this is from the terrace in the abbey at the very tip of the Mont.
And how does one get there you ask? One climbs up a narrow town lane and the proceeds to climb up hundreds and hundreds of steps. Once upon a time the Mont used to be a major site of pilgrimage (right up there with Santiago de Compostela). The abbey/church was established as a result of a dream where the Archangel Michael appeared and commanded that a church be built in that very place. I have come to the conclusion that places of pilgrimage are inextricably linked with discomfort. It's as though pilgrims had to suffer a bit before they received their miracle! In our modern times, it's all about working those glutes before you get a nice view!
The abbey itself is quite pretty. I have to admit however that it is also quite large and at one point (particularly in the subterranean parts) it all starts to resemble one another. Nonetheless, it's worth it for the views of the surrounding countryside. Although nice, but not as impressive, views can be had from vantage points along the fortifications of the city.
But what was my biggest beef with the city you ask? Definitely the fact that it's very very touristy. I know it seems crazy, given that I'm in Paris, but I'm generally not a fan of overly touristed sites. My favourite place in the whole world, is after all, Gimmelwald -- a tiny little village up in the Swiss Alps. I guess I can't blame the people of Mont Saint Michel though. It's just that with one tiny little street and with so many tour buses it's inevitable. It's certainly not a place to hang around in but it is nonetheless a place worth seeing if only for the mystique. Do try to visit during high tide though and stop to take pictures from far away.
In short -- am I happy I went on the trip? Absolutely! I met some great people, I practiced French, ate some oysters, saw a beautiful beach, and finally visited Mont Saint Michel. I would do it all over again. In fact I highly recommend the excursions of this group to anyone. You can reach their website at: www.club-international.org
As for my time since I returned I have been busy catching up with school work. Already you ask!?! Well, it appears that one of our Profs decided to bury our reading assignments in the middle of one of our books. None of us knew about it and as a result on the first day of class I was already 100 pages behind on the readings!!!! Ayyyaaa!
I did find some time this afternoon though to do some serious damage by hitting the shops. I arrived just in time for the semi-annual sales here in Paris and I thought it best to engage in some retail therapy lest the French leave me with nothing. I was fairly successful but it did take an awful lot of time and an awful lot of patience. Seriously, it's like it's boxing day everyday! I did buy some very cute things though that are bound to get people to ask: "Oh, where did you get that?" To which I will of course reply "Paris." :oP I kid, I kid . . . I'm really not that bad but it does happen.
And just in closing: I've been observing the accessories of people in the Metro/RER -- 'cause really what else is there to do!?! I have once again been impressed by the French ability to accessories and coordinate. We're not nearly so good at it in Canada -- even when we try. One thing in particular that perplexes me about French women is their endless ability to tie a scarf in a myriad of interesting and beautiful ways! I've tried -- believe me I've tried! But to no avail! I've even purchased books!!! This too must be in the genes . . .
Until we meet again,
A Canadian in Paris