Post by thinkingbouteurope on Dec 5, 2008 17:12:13 GMT -5
well after all those posts and guidance, I finally found my way to the Cinque Terre ... for two weeks. It rained or showered for only 2-3 days, the water was exceptionally choppy at the Vernazza harbor one day, only one coastal trail was closed part of the time, and the temperatures ranged most days between the upper 40s and 60, with a few days in the mid 60s during the first week.
Aside from its rugged, ragged beauty, its historic buildings that conform to the haphazard geography, the great food in restarants and markets, the impression that lingers is that the Cinque Terre was made for hiking not walking.
I enjoyed the Cinque Terre on four levels: (1) the villages, their people, shops and restaurants; (2) the coastal trail (2); (3) the shuttle buses into the hills and the hill trails; and (4) the hill trails (#1, mainly)
Actually, I enjoyed the hill trails from the comfort and warmth of my room surveying the map. I rode the shuttle from Vernazza with a driver who was attempting to set the time record for making the loop back to Vernazza, "cautiously" honking at each and every hairpin turn. I knew there were two spots (Reggio and San Bernadino) that I wanted to visit, but alas that was not be. Plus I would have had to walk down back to Vernazza as the shuttle only ran 3 times a day and he probably wouldn't have seen me anyway. I'm sure it's saner in high season. I also rode that shuttle to Corniglia as I had already walked the 365 steps (382 depending on which sign you believed) to the "hilltop" village Nor did I ride the shuttle from the other three villages.
Coastal trail: The easiest leg, 20 minutes, runs from Riomaggiore to Manarola; next, a relatively easy 40 minute walk, runs from Manarola to Corniglia. The next two legs are hikes. I managed the Vernazza to Corniglia leg. the ground was uniformly uneven and it seemed that every other corner there were steps up or down of totally uneven height and depth. I made matters worse because I was a runner (marathonS even) and runners don't stop until the finish line or, in this case, until I was out of breath from climbing, which gave me fortunate opportunities to enjoy the views Liguorian Sea. I finally reached Corniglia, had a couple of cappucinos and then walked DOWN the 365/382 steps to the Corniglia train station. After much deliberation, after hearing that the Vernazza to Monterosso trail was even more, the most difficult of the coastal trails, I deferred until next visit! So that is the saga of the trails, shuttles and trails.
Villages: The people of the villages, especially those of Vernazza, truly enjoyed my animated attempts at Italian, pointing and speaking with my hands (I am of Italian ancestry) They gradually helped me with words and taught me (idiomatic) phrases. I found the people I dealt with to be extremely good-natured. I found the best restaurants and eateries in Vernazza and Manarola, with a high value eatery in Monterosso. PLUS, I ate anchovies TWICE for the first time since I was 8 years old. The pizza, caprese and misto salads were excellent and reasonably priced, especially for lunch. The local coop sold proscuitto crudo and cotto and a variety of quality meats, as well as, hand sliced cheeses (OK, I preferred the Swiss.)
Aside from the incredible view from the balcony of my room (about six flights of stairs seemingly almost straight up), my most memorable moment and memory was missing my train from Corniglia back to Vernazza and standing on the station platform facing a complete view of the sea, soaking in the sun, waiting AN HOUR for the next train. (Not my reaction at home, BTW)
There was a wi-fi Internet Point and 2 internet computers at the Blue Marlin, which seemed like the center of activity in the village but ...
I didn't even describe the villages. OK, Monterosso is nice and flat ... perfect for walking but ...
I ramble ...
Any questions?
I'll ramble again.
I shall return!
Aside from its rugged, ragged beauty, its historic buildings that conform to the haphazard geography, the great food in restarants and markets, the impression that lingers is that the Cinque Terre was made for hiking not walking.
I enjoyed the Cinque Terre on four levels: (1) the villages, their people, shops and restaurants; (2) the coastal trail (2); (3) the shuttle buses into the hills and the hill trails; and (4) the hill trails (#1, mainly)
Actually, I enjoyed the hill trails from the comfort and warmth of my room surveying the map. I rode the shuttle from Vernazza with a driver who was attempting to set the time record for making the loop back to Vernazza, "cautiously" honking at each and every hairpin turn. I knew there were two spots (Reggio and San Bernadino) that I wanted to visit, but alas that was not be. Plus I would have had to walk down back to Vernazza as the shuttle only ran 3 times a day and he probably wouldn't have seen me anyway. I'm sure it's saner in high season. I also rode that shuttle to Corniglia as I had already walked the 365 steps (382 depending on which sign you believed) to the "hilltop" village Nor did I ride the shuttle from the other three villages.
Coastal trail: The easiest leg, 20 minutes, runs from Riomaggiore to Manarola; next, a relatively easy 40 minute walk, runs from Manarola to Corniglia. The next two legs are hikes. I managed the Vernazza to Corniglia leg. the ground was uniformly uneven and it seemed that every other corner there were steps up or down of totally uneven height and depth. I made matters worse because I was a runner (marathonS even) and runners don't stop until the finish line or, in this case, until I was out of breath from climbing, which gave me fortunate opportunities to enjoy the views Liguorian Sea. I finally reached Corniglia, had a couple of cappucinos and then walked DOWN the 365/382 steps to the Corniglia train station. After much deliberation, after hearing that the Vernazza to Monterosso trail was even more, the most difficult of the coastal trails, I deferred until next visit! So that is the saga of the trails, shuttles and trails.
Villages: The people of the villages, especially those of Vernazza, truly enjoyed my animated attempts at Italian, pointing and speaking with my hands (I am of Italian ancestry) They gradually helped me with words and taught me (idiomatic) phrases. I found the people I dealt with to be extremely good-natured. I found the best restaurants and eateries in Vernazza and Manarola, with a high value eatery in Monterosso. PLUS, I ate anchovies TWICE for the first time since I was 8 years old. The pizza, caprese and misto salads were excellent and reasonably priced, especially for lunch. The local coop sold proscuitto crudo and cotto and a variety of quality meats, as well as, hand sliced cheeses (OK, I preferred the Swiss.)
Aside from the incredible view from the balcony of my room (about six flights of stairs seemingly almost straight up), my most memorable moment and memory was missing my train from Corniglia back to Vernazza and standing on the station platform facing a complete view of the sea, soaking in the sun, waiting AN HOUR for the next train. (Not my reaction at home, BTW)
There was a wi-fi Internet Point and 2 internet computers at the Blue Marlin, which seemed like the center of activity in the village but ...
I didn't even describe the villages. OK, Monterosso is nice and flat ... perfect for walking but ...
I ramble ...
Any questions?
I'll ramble again.
I shall return!
