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Post by WillTravel on Feb 23, 2008 11:05:24 GMT -5
I was sad to read this article about Naples in the Globe and Mail: tinyurl.com/246eevI have read the tourist areas are cleaner and safer, but I can't say personally. I want to visit eventually, because there's so much there I want to see. |
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Post by Eagle on Feb 24, 2008 1:48:10 GMT -5
W.T., that's a very interesting article! It is a bit sad to see the deterioration and decline of such an interesting city. From what I've observed (from a distance) over the years, conditions in Naples seem to be somewhat "cyclical". At times it seems to have severe problems with crime (or more recently with the trash situation) or other things. Eventually, the locals get tired of this and pressure the authorities to clean things up and it's good for a while.
I also want to visit there at some point, perhaps even as soon as this May (still working on possibilities for getting back to Europe this year - some "complications" with the job situation are making it very difficult to plan).
Cheers!
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Post by madamtrashheap on Feb 27, 2008 0:56:42 GMT -5
As you may recall, I've been to Naples on several occasions and advocate visiting the city whenever I can, so I'm glad to see the cyclical nature of Naples (great description Eagle, and very true) hasn't put you off. The artlice you posted WT is an interesting one, and the area to which the writer refers is definitely not on the tourist trail of "must-see" destinations. It's a side of Naples that is too often portrayed as the only side of Naples, and this just isn't true. I was just in Italy and although I didn't get to Naples this time, the news was full of daily reports on the state of the garbage collections, or lack thereof, and the strife the city finds itself in once again. The rest of Italy has almost given up on Naples as it is quite literally an entity unto itself - run by the Camorra, despite protests by the government that they are regaining control. In fact, many argue that until the government "interfered" (ie tried to move in on the lucrative areas controlled by the Camorra) things were running OK - yes bribes were used and it's always who you know, but the city ticked along and people just got on with life. It's just the way things were, and people shrugged and accepted it, because the alternative would be (and has proved to be) no better. But when you see the police beating protesters about the garbage collection issue, you know the situation is going to get worse before it gets better.
If you go to Naples, best stay out of the Spanish Quarter, Scampia (clearly!), the harbour (unless getting on a boat) and if arriving by train avoid hanging around the train station too long. There are some amazing things to see in Naples and the food is superb, as are most of the people, but it's one of those places you just have to be super-alert in and you'll be fine.
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Post by madamtrashheap on May 25, 2008 23:36:35 GMT -5
And it is getting worse: news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/7418558.stmThe area the government has identified (Chianiano) is just behind Capodimonte (yes, where the museum is on the hill) and is one of the heavily populated poorer areas. The residents are quite right to protest the location of a rubbish dump here - consider the waste water run off potential alone, disasterous! I'm trying to find out the propose location of the other dumps, but I have a feeling they won't be well planned out and will be a short term solution to a long term problem. Welcome back Signor Belusconi!  |
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Post by pointofnoreturn on May 26, 2008 6:53:43 GMT -5
It's definitely dirty. I've never seen so much trash in my life, some were piled so high that you couldn't even see the lovely buildings!
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Post by Eagle on May 26, 2008 13:33:46 GMT -5
I was in Naples a few weeks ago, and didn't see much evidence of the trash problem in the parts of town that I was in. There were some large trash bins on some of the side streets, and I asked our Guide about these. She indicated this was just the "daily accumulation", which would be removed at night.
However, I did see evidence of "trash accumulations" in some of the surrounding communities. For example, we passed through the town of Torre del Greco on our way to Mt. Vesuvius. There were numerous large piles of trash lining both sides of the road. I don't know if this originated in that area, or originated in Naples and was just "dumped" there? It appeared to have been sitting there for a while.
Hopefully the "new" government can deal with this problem soon. I believe the E.U. is considering some punitive measures to "encourage" them to sort the situation quickly.
One other observation about Naples - I gather they don't get too many tour groups in that area (mostly just individuals, couples or small groups). Our group of about 28 seemed to elicit some attention when we were doing walking tours. People were looking, and I heard a few people muttering "Americani" as we passed by them. Hopefully there will be more tour groups travelling in that area, as the south seems to get "the short end of the stick" in terms of government funding (one example is a Cable Car that was supposed to be built to the top of Vesuvius - according to our local Guide, some funds were paid, the project was started and slightly completed, but most of the funds "disappeared". There are a couple of concrete pads at the top, but really nothing too substantial). Interesting.....
Cheers!
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Post by madamtrashheap on May 26, 2008 18:44:19 GMT -5
I was wondering how Naples went for you Eagle, would be keen to hear more thoughts.
As for the rubbish/trash problem, it's not affecting the central "richer" parts of town, more the poorer quarters of town and on thw outskirts of the Naples Commune (district). And yes, not all the rubbish in each area is from there. Many are bringing their refuse from other parts of town and dumping rubbish on top of the piles already there. My friends tell me it varies from area to area, and to retaliate for th einitial problem people are protesting by dumping more rubbish in piles (!), but the overall feeling is outrage that the situation has become so ridiculous to solve. There is a realy good book that came out last year called Gomorra by Roberto Saviano, which gives an insightful (Saviano is Neopolitan and is now under protective custody) description about the Cammora and the hold over Naples and why things are the way they are.
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Post by Eagle on May 27, 2008 0:59:17 GMT -5
MTH, your reference to the book on the Naples Mafia was interesting and timely. Our Guide (who lives in Naples) had told us about that particular book, and about the fact that the author is now under protective custody. I had made a note to try and locate the book, but after I returned home I forgot about it. Our Guide warned us about the Spanish Quarter, however we did pass very close to it on a couple of walking tours. Of course, those were in the day time! We visited one Church that a marble statue of Christ covered by a shroud, and that was a very memorable site for many in our group. The detail was incredible (as I recall, photos weren't allowed unfortunately). We must have been staying in the "richer" part of town, as I didn't notice any particular problems with trash. I just had a look at the live Webcam at www.hotelchiaia.it/ and didn't notice any problems in the streets today. That makes me wonder how the more affluent parts of Napoli are disposing of their trash? Apparently the landfills are all full in that area? I'm still thinking about all the sights and experiences from my trip. I did notice a distinctly different atmosphere in southern Italy compared to Rome and north. Arriving in Verona was a bit of a "culture shock" as I immediately had the impression it was much more affluent than many places in the south, except of course for the Amalfi coast. I enjoyed it though, and found the people to be wonderful and very hospitable. I suppose one poignant example for me was the expression on the faces of the three Pizza Chefs (if you've seen the photo). They seemed to be genuinely happy to have us visit, and shared their hospitality in a wonderful fashion. In Vieste one gentleman stopped me on the street and invited me to return the following week, as they were having yet another festival. I'm still thinking about it, and might have a few more thoughts once I finally get my Diary onto paper (can't remember if I recorded the details on the somewhat "unsavory" woman that I encountered during the train ride from Bologna to Verona, and also the "mental case" that was sitting behind me - I guess that's what makes travel so interesting). However to summarize my thoughts at the moment, I had a fantastic time in Southern Italy and definitely want to return!!! Cheers!
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Post by madamtrashheap on May 27, 2008 21:30:49 GMT -5
We visited one Church that a marble statue of Christ covered by a shroud, and that was a very memorable site for many in our group. The detail was incredible (as I recall, photos weren't allowed unfortunately). That is one of the most incredible statues, nay things!, I've ever seen. It's one of the many things to see and do in Naples that I'm contantly recommending. So glad you got to see it Eagle. And of course the rest of Napoli. We must have been staying in the "richer" part of town, as I didn't notice any particular problems with trash. I just had a look at the live Webcam at www.hotelchiaia.it/ and didn't notice any problems in the streets today. That makes me wonder how the more affluent parts of Napoli are disposing of their trash? Apparently the landfills are all full in that area? Yep, the landfills are all full and have been for ages, hence the "identifying" of the 10 new areas that are causing conflict. I'm really glad to hear that you enjoyed the Southern Italy part of your trip - it is a great region, despite the sometimes bad press, and if you're aware of yourself as a traveller you'll usually be fine. Looks like you found more "trouble" in the north (gotta love entertainment on train trips!  ). |
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bs1313
Senior Travel Member
Posts: 104
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Post by bs1313 on Jun 2, 2008 20:52:33 GMT -5
I am considering going to Naples while I am in Rome since we will be there for about 8 days. Would it be safe for just my girlfriend and I to go there? I heard that crime is pretty high there and I don't want to have any problems.
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Post by Eagle on Jun 3, 2008 1:09:37 GMT -5
Bret, Naples does have a bad reputation for criminal activity, and even many Italians seem to be afraid to travel there. However, speaking from my own recent experience, I wandered all over parts of Naples (both day and night) carrying expensive Camera gear and I never had any problems. At the end of the street where our Hotel was located, there seemed to be a Police "Command Post" Van parked there continuously. Perhaps they were making sure that tourists don't have any problems?
Of course there are areas that are best to avoid (Spanish Quarter?). You might find it helpful to check one or two Guidebooks for advice not only on which areas to stay away from, but also how to get around the city most efficiently and which sites to visit (the Museo Archeologico is really interesting!). I use the Rick Steves books, but Lonely Planet (and others) are good too.
Hope this helps. Happy travels!
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