Post by Kim on Dec 21, 2003 11:17:30 GMT -5
So......to continue, got up yesterday morning, showered, dressed and packed and headed off to SZacharia vaporetto stop to go to the train station. Nearest one to where i was staying. Arrived about 0800 on a Saturday morning and thinking, hmmm, seems rather uncrowded and unbusy. Arriving at the stop I see a small, small sign in the window saying that due to 'transportation strike service will be irregular'. Okay have played these Italian strike games before! Several others standing around with luggage as I was, we all join forces and say, hell, we'll just rent a water taxi. With so many of us the cost won't be so prohibitive. Wrong! The taxi's are 'supporting their brothers' and not running. Nothing for it but to walk to the station. I am in Castello, far southeast corner of Venice, more or less, train station in northwest. Actually not THAT far of a walk, if you can take out the dozens of bridges one must climb up and over dragging luggage along. --SMILE--- BUT, along the way got the most fabulous views of an almost 100 percent empty Grand Canal! Yep, you bet my camera was firing away!
Took about 45 minutes, not bad at all, but of course I had missed my 0924 train. So just took the next one at 1032 and arrived in Florence at 1330. A terrific ride, thorugh some of the most beautiful Tuscan countryside. The hills, the cypress (sp) trees, the vineyards climbing up the hillsides, it is a magical ride to me.
Had it straight in my head where the hotel was, and believe it or not had it exactly right. Walked straight to it, about 20 minutes at most. Really wonderful place, old 15th century bldg totally restored...the breakfast room, lounge and bar are gorgeous! Frescoes on all the ceilings, marble everywhere...really nice. And very reasonably priced too...not backpacker range but surely not out of reach by a long shot. Huge marble bath, huge tub! I'm in heaven. Checked in and headed off to see again, this, my most favorite city in the world.
They've gotten most of the Duomo cleaned now...it simply shimmers. The day was again bright, sunny, 50 degrees. I simply wandered about the area and took it all in, smiling like a cheshire cat at the sheer joy of being here once again. Being the Saturday before Christmas it was packed! Shoppers out in full force, hustle and bustle like anywhere on that day and the city is totally decked out! Came across a Christmas thing going on just off the Ponte Vechio....horse drawing a cart loaded with 'harvest' looking stuff: pumpkins, gourds, corn, strings of garlic, flowers...and leading it was a group of singers, dressed all in country\rustic clothing, long greatcoats with the short cape attached at the shoulers, traditional hats....they had an accordian, trumpet, flute and guitar with them and stopped every block or so to sing several songs....had another fellow dressed as St. Nick handing out candy and balloons to the kids....wonderful.
Left there, headed over towards Santa Croce and ran smack into the medievel parade about to begin. This was beyond words! They were all decked out in Rennasaince clothing...in the most gorgeous colors and there were men in chest and head armor leading, followed by stern looking regal 'city leaders' then came the women, gawd the dresses! Gorgeous velvets and satins, they were carrying huge baskets of produce and flowers....then came the drummers, the trumpeters, the musket men and lastly the flag carriers who were throwing their flags up in the air and catching them, twirling them all around.....folks it was fantastic! They paraded all through town, I mean ALL through town and ended on the steps of the Duomo where the women took their offerings in to the alter. Pinch me I am in Italy at Christmastime! These costumes were not to be believed, beautiful fabrics and colors, such detail.
Amazing.
Wandered through the markets after that, had nearly forgotten what leather goods can be had here. And the bargaining and haggling was going full force....such fun to watch them. I love to hear Italians talk, it's such a vibrant, alive sounding language. They could be reading a phone book and it would sound like such high drama!
Food......for lunch yesterday grabbed a bite at an osteria....salami closest thing to describing the meat, a very mild cheese, tomatoes on thinly sliced, toasted dill bread. It was a delight. The usual cappu and apple thingy for b'fast....twice. ;D For dinner had spinach tortelinni with sliced 'mini' portabello mushrooms, bits of ham and the most wonderful cream tomato sauce. (May just go back there tonight it was so good!) Have had several gelatos now...assume that goes without saying right? And couldn't begin to tell you what vintage, year, whatever but have had more than my fair share of Italian wine....often just the house stuff and it is terrific!
Today my weather luck ran out....has been rainy\mostly misty and a bit cooler, but fine weather expected to return tomorrow. So, spent almost 6 hours in the Uffizi today. One of the 3 places i knew I simply had to pay my money and see again. As before, walked right up, paid and walked right in....no line, no wait, very little crowd. Had them going in there though....HORRORS!! I took a few pictures! Those women guards were about to stoke. Not of any of the artwork, but of the corrider and ceiling....and I didn't use my flash but was caught nevertheless. They would come running, literally, up hissing 'no,no'....I'd assume a blank look, say scuzzi, and carry on. The worst they could do was make me leave, and they didn't of course.
That's it for now...my belly is growling. Food awaits me!
Oh, one final thought, asked at the desk today about Christmas, would anything be open at all.....having been in several European countries on Christmas I know one can easily starve to death if not prior prepared. Oh yes, there will be many restaurants open he assured me......his words 'you know how the italians love to eat!'
till next time
ging
Took about 45 minutes, not bad at all, but of course I had missed my 0924 train. So just took the next one at 1032 and arrived in Florence at 1330. A terrific ride, thorugh some of the most beautiful Tuscan countryside. The hills, the cypress (sp) trees, the vineyards climbing up the hillsides, it is a magical ride to me.
Had it straight in my head where the hotel was, and believe it or not had it exactly right. Walked straight to it, about 20 minutes at most. Really wonderful place, old 15th century bldg totally restored...the breakfast room, lounge and bar are gorgeous! Frescoes on all the ceilings, marble everywhere...really nice. And very reasonably priced too...not backpacker range but surely not out of reach by a long shot. Huge marble bath, huge tub! I'm in heaven. Checked in and headed off to see again, this, my most favorite city in the world.
They've gotten most of the Duomo cleaned now...it simply shimmers. The day was again bright, sunny, 50 degrees. I simply wandered about the area and took it all in, smiling like a cheshire cat at the sheer joy of being here once again. Being the Saturday before Christmas it was packed! Shoppers out in full force, hustle and bustle like anywhere on that day and the city is totally decked out! Came across a Christmas thing going on just off the Ponte Vechio....horse drawing a cart loaded with 'harvest' looking stuff: pumpkins, gourds, corn, strings of garlic, flowers...and leading it was a group of singers, dressed all in country\rustic clothing, long greatcoats with the short cape attached at the shoulers, traditional hats....they had an accordian, trumpet, flute and guitar with them and stopped every block or so to sing several songs....had another fellow dressed as St. Nick handing out candy and balloons to the kids....wonderful.
Left there, headed over towards Santa Croce and ran smack into the medievel parade about to begin. This was beyond words! They were all decked out in Rennasaince clothing...in the most gorgeous colors and there were men in chest and head armor leading, followed by stern looking regal 'city leaders' then came the women, gawd the dresses! Gorgeous velvets and satins, they were carrying huge baskets of produce and flowers....then came the drummers, the trumpeters, the musket men and lastly the flag carriers who were throwing their flags up in the air and catching them, twirling them all around.....folks it was fantastic! They paraded all through town, I mean ALL through town and ended on the steps of the Duomo where the women took their offerings in to the alter. Pinch me I am in Italy at Christmastime! These costumes were not to be believed, beautiful fabrics and colors, such detail.
Amazing.
Wandered through the markets after that, had nearly forgotten what leather goods can be had here. And the bargaining and haggling was going full force....such fun to watch them. I love to hear Italians talk, it's such a vibrant, alive sounding language. They could be reading a phone book and it would sound like such high drama!
Food......for lunch yesterday grabbed a bite at an osteria....salami closest thing to describing the meat, a very mild cheese, tomatoes on thinly sliced, toasted dill bread. It was a delight. The usual cappu and apple thingy for b'fast....twice. ;D For dinner had spinach tortelinni with sliced 'mini' portabello mushrooms, bits of ham and the most wonderful cream tomato sauce. (May just go back there tonight it was so good!) Have had several gelatos now...assume that goes without saying right? And couldn't begin to tell you what vintage, year, whatever but have had more than my fair share of Italian wine....often just the house stuff and it is terrific!
Today my weather luck ran out....has been rainy\mostly misty and a bit cooler, but fine weather expected to return tomorrow. So, spent almost 6 hours in the Uffizi today. One of the 3 places i knew I simply had to pay my money and see again. As before, walked right up, paid and walked right in....no line, no wait, very little crowd. Had them going in there though....HORRORS!! I took a few pictures! Those women guards were about to stoke. Not of any of the artwork, but of the corrider and ceiling....and I didn't use my flash but was caught nevertheless. They would come running, literally, up hissing 'no,no'....I'd assume a blank look, say scuzzi, and carry on. The worst they could do was make me leave, and they didn't of course.
That's it for now...my belly is growling. Food awaits me!
Oh, one final thought, asked at the desk today about Christmas, would anything be open at all.....having been in several European countries on Christmas I know one can easily starve to death if not prior prepared. Oh yes, there will be many restaurants open he assured me......his words 'you know how the italians love to eat!'
till next time
ging